Even though there is no standard on how to draw the camera movements on a storyboard, this is a comprehensive guide of what i have seen used, and of what i use to draw the camera movements on a storyboard, above all, the most important thing is to be clear, that´s why if you don´t remember how to draw an specific camera movement, just write down what the camera does below the drawing, here is the guide:
Panning to the left
Panning to the right
Dolly / Travelling in
Dolly / Travelling back
Dolly / travelling left
Dolly / travelling right
More complex camera movements can be drawn in the following way:
is a floor plan of the scene that indicates what the camera does, in this example is a travelling around a dancing character.
- the arrows indicates in which direction the camera travels, and where to stop
- the round line indicates the path of the camera (the line can be changed to any desired shape, indicating different camera movements)
- the triangle indicates where the camera is shooting
- the beautifully drawn character indicates where the actor is
- there can be other elements of the scene as needed, such as a couch, a tree, a dog, another character etc..
if it is a too complex movement it can be drawn using an entire frame of a storyboard (as the example above), or if is clear enough, you can draw it below the frame, as this:
Here is a link to storyboard blank templates.
Here is a cheap solution if you want a straight light flare, like the one an anamorphic lens gives, you will be needing a fishing line, permanent markers ( if you want a colored flare), and a way to hold this in front of the lens (for this i used a third party cokin P filter holder, the cheapeast one i could find on ebay)
The only technical consideration is that the fishing line is spaced by 0.5 cm, because that is the spacing that i discover works best on a Canon fd 50mm 1.4., from f1.4 to f8.
And a video of the DIY filter:
Here you will find two blank templates to be filled in, they have different aspect ratios, and as the idea of making a storysketch before making a film is to see how the story will be told, how the story will be framed, the format in wich the film will be shown must be same in wich the storysketch is drawn.
The first template has the must common anamorphic proportions, from the outer frame to the inner frame, the proportions are: 3,55:1 (on HDTV scale is 1920X540 pixels). then it comes the wider Cinemascope in 2,66:1 (on HDTV scale is 1920X720 pixels), and then the less wider Cinemascope on 2.35:1 (on HDTV scale is 1920×820):
The second template is in the Four thirds standard format (the format of the oldie SDTV, NTSC-PAL )
Both templates are in letter size.
To know how to use these templates please refer to this article: The Storysketch
The Storysketch is used as a comic to tell the story of a movie, every frame is going to be a different shot, it is the early stage of a storyboard (A more artistically elaborated storysketch) , the idea of the storysketch is being able to fill it in quickly, without too much hazzle about making the draws cute, does why the thumbnails are small.
It must have info about the framing, the perspective (optional), the light (optional), and the camera movements, if you want to be even faster at the drawing stage you can use names, instead of drawing all the grass of a shot, just write, grass and draw a few….
…On a personal note, as part of the OMMP i have noticed that making 20 frames of storysketch is better than making 10 or 5, because i get focus more on the storytelling and i actually lost myself in the story, while if i set my daily goal to be 10 i´m more concerned about reaching the number, and start doing a less passive activity…
*The inner frame aspect ratio is 16:9 (wide HD television (1920*1080 pixels)) and the outer frame is 4k (Digital cinema format (4096×2160 pixels)).
To have two more Storysketch templates, please visit this post: Two more Storysketch blank templates
The franken lens, (:, just a fun proyect of the weekend, i took an old polaroid camera, of the ones that printed the images in the 80´s, took out the plastic lens and placed into mi micro four thirds camera, the tubes that you see are macro tubes, that are used to been able to have the lens in focus (In this case the distance from the lens to the camera sensor must be the same distance that the light traveled from the lens to the printable paper inside the polaroid), luckily, to these tubes a 52mm ring can be screwed, so i simply attached a 52mm ring into the lens, to make the Frankenlens interchangeable.
*The white goo is epoxic clay, i used it just to hold everything together in a sturdy way
**The diaphragm is part of the internal mechanism of the original polaroid camera, thats way the franken lens has such a weird shape, to keep the blades of the diaphragm working (the lever wheel and the spring are also part of the ancient mechanism)
I can also control the two blades lens diaphragm in two different ways.
By turning this screw i can hold the diaphragm in a desire position.
And by pulling this little lever i can have an stepless diaphragm.
above the diaphragm and inside the 52mm ring, there is a little hole, this hole is used to give a ghosting effect to the images, just a little effect that make the Frankenlens more unique, and by covering the hole, from the outside, with the finger, the ghosting effect dissapears. Here are some two photo examples:
with the ghosting effect.
with the ghosting effect.
So, as you can imagine, i will probably never use this lens again (:, but is a nice thing to have just in case you want that effect of an old plastic camera, on my camera it almost look like a 75mm lens (on 35mm equivalent), and the lens needs a lot of light in order to work, this is probably because it doesn´t have a focus mechanism, so i don´t know, maybe it is an F8, and keeps everything in focus, problably only useful for daylight or long time exposure pics in the night.